Cape Verde, officially the Republic of Cape Verde, is an island nation made up of a dozen or so small islands, with a total population of around 500,000. Each major island has its own airport, and three of them even have international airports. It’s super easy to fly in from London—just a six-hour flight to escape the damp, cold winter. The daytime temperature often hovers around 30°C (86°F), and the sunshine is incredibly bright. It’s so intense that I completely forgot it was near the equator, and ended up sunburned after a lazy afternoon on the beach. The local economy relies on salt production and fishing, which have been going on for centuries, alongside the growing tourism industry. This mix of traditional trades and tourism provides a self-sufficient, content lifestyle for this tiny corner of the world.
This region consists entirely of islands, with goods transportation and travel between them relying on a limited number of large passenger ships and costly flights. Praia, the capital of Cape Verde, is also the country’s economic hub, with tourism serving as the main pillar that sustains the nation.
For a serene experience, head to the old lighthouse by the sea to admire the deep blue ocean and sky. Be sure to give the lighthouse keeper a small tip—two or three dollars—to guide you to the top of the tower, where you can quietly watch the sun set over the horizon.
According to Lonely Planet, some of the top recommended islands in Cape Verde include:
- Santiago Island: The largest island in Cape Verde and home to the capital, Praia. The former capital, Cidade Velha, was once the second wealthiest city in the Portuguese empire during the transatlantic slave trade. However, due to warfare in the early 18th century, the capital was moved to Praia. Santiago is rich with colonial-era relics and historical sites.
- Santo Antão Island: Known for its vast pine forests in the north, it is perfect for hiking and trekking enthusiasts. The rugged landscape and scenic trails make it a paradise for nature lovers.
- Fogo Island: This island is an active volcano. In fact, it last erupted in 1995 and features a volcanic crater with a 9-kilometer diameter. It’s a fascinating destination for those drawn to geology and dramatic landscapes.
- Sal Island: A haven for surfers, especially kite surfers, thanks to its steady winds and favorable conditions. Sal is ideal for those seeking beach activities and water sports.
- São Vicente Island: Originally inhabited in the 19th century to refuel coal-powered ships, São Vicente has since grown into Cape Verde’s cultural hub. Today, it hosts a vibrant carnival each February, attracting visitors from all over.
Except for the busy time in the afternoon when people head out to fish, you can usually see folks just hanging out doing nothing. Under the scorching sun, people gather in groups under the shade of trees, chatting leisurely and enjoying life. It’s like a vintage photo album from the last century, with time quietly passing between the pages. This might be how Cape Verdeans understand time.
Even though I know I’ve only been here for less than a week and haven’t really immersed myself in local life, I still believe that this direct, simple way of living has given me a rare kind of joy.
This is the soul of the island nation—its always-summer climate weaves the days into a seemingly unchanging, ever-repeating river of time.
Her rendition of “Sodade,” which she sang around the globe, is well-known here. Cape Verde’s traditional music style, Morna, becomes melancholic and poetic through her interpretation. Her soul-stirring voice is the only legacy the singer left for Cape Verde.
The time when the fishermen return with their catch is probably the most magical moment on the island. However, I’m not quite sure when that happens. I lost a lot of time on my way there, so by the time I arrived, it was already noon. With the crashing waves came a stream of colorful boats, all returning loaded with fish. The fishmongers at the dock took the catch from the fishermen, skillfully sorting it. The smell of fresh fish, occasionally mixed with the scent of blood from the butchering, filled the air, while seagulls circled overhead, endlessly screeching with excitement.
The sorted fish quickly made their way to the fish markets or restaurants, and within moments, the fish delivery carts were packed and ready to hit the road, ensuring that every table in town would have fresh fish tonight.
From the restaurant’s large terrace, you can overlook the beach as it gradually quiets down. The colorful boats that were drifting on the sea are now lined up neatly on the sand, creating a beautiful scene. I ordered a plate of sizzling, grilled grouper and a bottle of local beer. The sheer satisfaction of the meal makes you want to come back for more.
The town is actually quite small. Just a short walk down the street lined with flowering wild trees whose names I don’t know will lead you to the busiest spot in town: the farmers’ market. The market looks like a canvas painted with random colors, with Cape Verdean women’s vibrant clothing almost overshadowing the goods being sold. It’s bustling both during the week and on weekends.
Head to the historic center of Cidade Velha, the first city established in Cape Verde. In the early 18th century, the notorious French pirate Jacques Cassart captured the fortress and razed the city to the ground. Today, it stands as a testament to the island’s history, preserving the original street layout and captivating ruins.
Among the remnants are two churches, a royal fortress, and a 16th-century marble-pillared execution ground. The old, rusted cannons still stand proudly atop the thick stone walls, long retired from their original purpose but serving as silent witnesses to the past.
If everything in the world possesses a spirit, it is most evident here. On Santiago Island, there were once two ancient trees, each over a thousand years old. When I asked an elderly villager about the exact age of one of these trees, he shook his head and said, “My great-great-grandfather told my grandfather that when he was a child, the tree was already this big.” The exact age remains unknown, but it’s certain the tree has stood for over a millennium.
Unfortunately, one of the trees was struck by lightning last year, leaving its roots partially exposed above the soil. Most of the villagers have lost hope for its survival, feeling only a sense of regret at the loss of such a timeless presence.