Nepal’s largest city and its capital, Kathmandu, attracts a diverse range of people: adventurers, travelers, hippies, students, job seekers, and entrepreneurs. They come here to tour, study, work, or do business. While many young people living here can’t wait to leave, those who come from elsewhere are often reluctant to leave the city too quickly. Now, this city has a population of 3 million. Despite many shortcomings, its deeply rooted cultural heritage complements its modernity.
Kathmandu is also the first stop for international tourists coming to experience Nepal. The city and its people will welcome visitors from all over the world with open arms, but for those coming here for the first time, it may feel a bit “too much.”
So, please take this guide on how to navigate Nepal’s busy capital to better plan your trip to Kathmandu.
First, Getting Out of the Airport
Nepal’s only international airport might seem chaotic to those just arriving. The number of passengers it handles exceeds its capacity. Most foreigners are eligible for a visa on arrival, but if you don’t want to waste time waiting in line, it’s best to apply at the embassy in advance, which can save some time. Occasionally, the ATMs at the airport may stop working, so it’s a good idea to carry one or two hundred dollars or Chinese yuan with you to exchange for Nepalese Rupees at the counters inside the airport.
Viewing the Himalayas from the Plane
If the weather is clear, you will fly over the Everest region, offering a first close-up encounter with the top of the world. It’s recommended to sit on the right side by the window to avoid the wing blocking your view.
Eight of the ten highest Himalayan peaks in the world are located in Nepal. If you’re eager to see the mesmerizing scenery of the towering Himalayas, autumn (October and November) or spring (April and May) might be the best times to visit.
From February to early April is the so-called burning season, when forest fires during the dry season and smoke from slash-and-burn agriculture on the plains of southern Nepal can obscure parts of the view. If you travel from Kathmandu to some nearby areas—such as Dhulikhel and Nagarkot—you might catch a glimpse of Mount Everest.
Masks Are Essential
Kathmandu is listed as one of the most polluted cities in the world, which is why it is sometimes called “Maskmandu.” Dust from road expansion projects, post-earthquake reconstruction, emissions from brick factories near the city, and of course, smoke-belching vehicles that remain on the roads due to weak enforcement of regulations, all contribute to the city’s growing air pollution. The city’s transportation department and local authorities have attempted to keep the air clean by banning vehicles over 20 years old. Last year, the authorities also declared the Thamel tourist area and parts of the city center as car-free zones, meaning that cars, trucks, and small buses are not allowed to drive there. While these efforts have had some impact, the best protection is likely still a mask. It’s best to use an internationally certified mask with a built-in filter.
Learn How to Greet People
Learning some local phrases will definitely be helpful. For example:
- “Malai Thaha Chhaina” (I don’t know)
- “Dhanyabad” (Thank you)
- Namaste” is the primary greeting, and it’s even better if you press your palms together in front of your chest as a sign of respect.
Other useful words include “Bhai” (younger brother) or “Dai” (older brother) and “Didi” (older sister) or “Baini” (younger sister). Nepali people often use these terms instead of addressing someone by name, and even strangers may warmly refer to each other as brother or sister.
Use “Nepal Time”
Nepali people are not very strict about punctuality.
Most appointments and meetings often occur about an hour after the scheduled time, a local jest referred to as “Nepal Time.” People may have various “reasonable” excuses, such as the commonly used traffic congestion, but the majority of delays are due to their relaxed attitude toward time. Arriving an hour late is considered normal. This laid-back attitude is reflected in the “uncertainty” of transportation, bus, and flight departure and arrival times, or in government workers making you wait for hours. Of course, you can still arrive on time according to your own habits, and then, wait…
Try Newari and Thakali Cuisine
Kathmandu offers a wide variety of foods, but you shouldn’t miss the local dishes. The Newars, indigenous people of the Kathmandu Valley, have a refined and diverse cuisine. Try a mouthwatering plate of chhwela (spiced grilled meat or chicken), kachila (spiced minced meat tartare), and bara (fried lentil patties with eggs). Most Newari small eateries are tucked away in the narrow, dark alleys of old town areas, but an increasing number of upscale restaurants now include Newari dishes on their menus.
Thakalis, whose name comes from the Thak Khola valley in the Annapurna region, are a Nepalese ethnic group who have perfected the art of Nepal’s staple daal bhat (rice and lentils). They elevate this dish with an array of fried vegetables, meat or fish, rice, beans, curry, pickles, and even ghee, creating a flavorful Nepalese meal.
Wise Travel Tips
Exploring Kathmandu can be a bit daunting. The city lacks an efficient public transportation system, and for newcomers, the traffic can seem chaotic: drivers ignore traffic rules, buses stop in the middle of the road, and buses are crammed with passengers. You might end up on a crowded minibus or a taxi that could charge you extra.
If you choose a taxi, make sure to insist that the driver uses the meter. If the driver refuses, don’t be afraid to negotiate the fare. Locally, taxi drivers usually charge 100 rupees per kilometer, but they might try to charge foreigners more. Once you know the distance, try to negotiate the fare.
Additionally, there’s Tootle, a motorcycle-sharing app, or the taxi-sharing service Sarathi. Sajha Yatayat is a cooperative that operates buses in the city and offers decent public transportation services.
Hiking the Surrounding Hills
Kathmandu has more to offer than just its ancient squares and monuments. To fully appreciate the valley’s scenery, hiking or biking along the surrounding hills is a must. There are four prominent hills around Kathmandu: Phulchoki, Shivapuri, Nagarjun, and Champadevi.
A notable hike is from Sundarijal to Chisapani on the northeastern edge of the valley, where on clear days you can see the Langtang range and spot various bird species in the woods.
Next time, I’ll share a complete list of hiking locations around Kathmandu. If you enjoy running, you might want to try the Stupa to Stupa Marathon, a 54-kilometer trail race from the Monkey Temple to the World Peace Stupa.