Introduction to Tunisia:
Tunisia is one of the few countries in the world that boasts such a wealth of diverse travel experiences. From beaches and deserts to mountains, forests, and ancient civilization ruins, Tunisia offers travelers the chance to explore a variety of landscapes and histories. No matter what kind of trip you’re looking for, you’ll find something in Tunisia to match your style.
The Lezard Rouge (Red Lizard Train) quietly rests on the platform, surrounded by blue-painted wooden doors, shuttered windows, and bright whitewashed walls. The blindingly bright Mediterranean sunlight, so intense it feels almost tiresome, reflects off these familiar scenes—after all, the train reliably carries tourists from around the world between Métlaoui and Redeyef on a daily basis.
As the train slowly pulls out of the station, gently picking up speed, the journey begins—three distinct experiences wrapped into one trip, each offering its own unique glimpse of Tunisia’s rich and varied beauty.
Best Time to Visit:
Tunisia’s northern and eastern regions border the Mediterranean, while the southernmost part of the country extends into the Sahara Desert. In the north, winters are mild and rainy, while summers can get very hot. The southern regions are dry and hot year-round. The ideal time to visit Tunisia is generally from May to October, when the weather is more pleasant. However, traveling outside of this peak season can be a great way to avoid large crowds and still enjoy the beauty of the country.
Accommodation Guide:
Hotels in Tunisia typically follow a European-style eco-friendly system, so it’s important to bring your own essential toiletries, such as toothbrushes, toothpaste, slippers, and sleepwear. Most hotels in Tunisia do not provide hot drinking water, so if you need it, consider bringing an electric kettle.
In the northern regions, hotels are mostly situated along the coastline, offering stunning views of the Mediterranean as soon as you open your window. For a good balance of quality and affordability, the Laico Hotels chain is highly recommended, providing solid options for budget-friendly stays.
In the southern desert regions, tent hotels offer a unique lodging experience and are available in three types:
- Basic Tents: No electricity and no shower facilities.
- Standard Tents: Equipped with electricity and shared washing areas.
- Luxury Tents: Featuring upscale amenities that rival five-star hotels.
These options allow you to choose the level of comfort and experience that best suits your needs while enjoying the captivating desert landscape.
Food Guide:
Tunisian cuisine tends to be light and flavorful, with staple foods like pasta, bread, and rice being particularly popular. Must-try dishes include couscous, fish stew, pork fat and ham cake, tagine with lamb, and fried egg pastries. For dessert, it’s common to enjoy fruits like olives and dates.
One of the national beverages is mint green tea, which is a staple in Tunisian culture. Additionally, don’t miss out on trying boukha, a local spirit made from figs. This combination of unique flavors and traditional dishes offers a delightful culinary experience for any visitor.
Recommended Dishes to Try:
- Brick-Shaped Eggs: A delicious dish made by placing an egg, parsley, onion, tuna, shrimp, and minced meat inside a fried, envelope-shaped pastry. It’s often finished with a squeeze of lemon juice for added zest.
- Oat Flour: This dish involves stewing vegetables, meat, and poultry together, then combining coarse wheat flour with Maga (a type of thick sauce) and steaming it in a container. It has roots in the early Berber tribes. It can also be made with grilled fish, charcoal-roasted lamb, or lamb liver.
- Mechouia: A perfect accompaniment to steamed oat flour, this salad is made from tomatoes and roasted peppers. Depending on the season, it can be topped with various fresh fruits like blood oranges, desert dates, or juicy Roman melons.
- Chorba Soup: A hearty soup made with vegetables and tender lamb meat, often flavored with spices that make it comforting and delicious.
- Briks: A type of pastry filled with egg and tuna, resembling larger Chinese potstickers but with a unique Tunisian twist.
- Couscous: A staple in Tunisian cuisine, couscous is somewhat similar to a rice bowl topped with meat and vegetables. Traditionally, it’s made by steaming coarse wheat flour in a special pot called Keskes. It can be served hot or cold and sometimes includes raisins and nuts for a sweeter taste. Typically, couscous is enjoyed with spicy or savory meat sauces and vegetables like bell peppers and carrots, creating a delightful and nutritious dish that is visually appealing as well.
The “Red Lizard” Train Under the North African Sun
Around nine in the morning, Métlaoui Station started to come alive. When I say “alive,” I really mean the subtle excitement of tourists looking around and soaking in the atmosphere—nothing that could change the station’s inherent charm. The blue-painted wooden doors and shuttered windows, along with the bright whitewashed walls, glimmered under the Mediterranean sun, creating a dazzling yet laid-back scene.
Inside the station, two Arab men engaged in casual conversation while peering out of a small door toward the minaret of a nearby mosque. You could also spot several thriving palm and olive trees adding to the local flavor. On the platform, French men and women stood together, filled with anticipation, their curiosity and pre-departure excitement palpable.
Meanwhile, the Lezard Rouge train quietly rested at the platform, seemingly indifferent to the hustle and bustle around it. After all, it regularly carries tourists from around the globe between Métlaoui and Redeyef with a sense of routine, providing an opportunity for exploration and adventure against the stunning backdrop of Tunisia’s landscape.
Built in 1910, this train was once the exclusive ride for Tunisia’s elite, boasting only six carriages. Initially, it ran between Tunisia and the coastal resort of Hammam Lif, designed for the summer enjoyment of the wealthy. The plush sofas, private compartments, and antique light fixtures inside still hint at its former glory and luxurious status.
In 1995, the Tunisian National Railways undertook a complete renovation of the train, transforming it into a themed tourist attraction now operating between Métlaoui and Redeyef. The deep red exterior, black wrought iron railings, and the train’s name, Lezard Rouge, evoke a sense of nostalgia, though it lacks the understated elegance of its heyday. Nevertheless, it retains a certain charm.
As the train begins to move, it gracefully departs from the small station and steadily gains speed. Like a vibrant red lizard, it weaves through the dry yet stunning landscapes of the Atlas Mountains, offering passengers a unique perspective on the striking scenery that surrounds them.
Métlaoui, an important phosphate mining area in Tunisia, was discovered in the late 19th century by French Army doctor Philippe. This railway line played a crucial role in the extraction and transportation of phosphates. Outside the window, the yellow hills and canyons of the Atlas Mountains stretch out, with the famous Seldja Gorge being a standout feature. Occasionally, shallow pools of water appear, accompanied by sparse vegetation—these are perhaps the so-called desert oases.
The Atlas Mountains, which extend over 2,400 kilometers, traverse Morocco, Algeria, and Tunisia, separating the southwestern Mediterranean coast from the Sahara Desert.
Among the passengers, the French seem to be the most enamored with this train journey, particularly middle-aged travelers. Many wear expressions that reflect a somewhat complex relationship with the country, and their moods shift in sync with the passing scenery outside. The train cars and the spaces between them are infused with a distinctly French ambiance: quiet men occasionally lean out the window while women with curvy figures rest their arms on their knees, softly murmuring in low French tones.
Red Lizard Train
Itinerary: The Red Lizard Train travels 42 kilometers from the southwest of Gafsa, passing through the Tell Atlas to reach Métlaoui, taking passengers through Tunisia’s phosphate mining hub. The round trip takes about two hours and includes several stops along the way, allowing tourists to disembark and take photos.
Operating Hours: The train departs at 10:30 AM on Mondays, Fridays, and Sundays, and at 10:00 AM on Tuesdays and Thursdays.
Ticket Purchase: Tickets cost 20 dinars and can be bought directly at the train station before boarding. In addition, tickets for the Red Lizard Train can also be purchased at major train stations in various towns at 11:00 AM, except on Saturdays. During peak tourist season, it’s advisable to book tickets in advance by calling (75) 76241469.
History: Métlaoui is a key phosphate-producing area in Tunisia, and this narrow-gauge railway was built by the French in the late 19th century for transporting phosphoric acid. Originally a gift from the French government to the King of Tunisia, the train underwent a complete renovation by the Tunisian National Railways in 1995 and was transformed into a themed tourist attraction. The train retains the antique hook-and-loop connection system between carriages, and the interiors still feature first, second, and third-class compartments. The first-class section boasts luxurious private cabins with leather sofas and elegant wooden furniture, while the second-class section offers rows of comfortable seating.