Fiji—A Country Made Up of 330 Islands

Fiji—A Country Made Up of 330 Islands

Tokoriki Island Resort Fiji Outer Waters

Around noon, we boarded the high-speed catamaran heading to the outer islands. The waters at Port Denarau appeared dark green, but as we neared the first stop along the route, the sea transformed into a stunning blue—the same blue seen on Fiji Water bottles. The water’s clarity was evident through the ripples left by the boat, drawing gasps of amazement from the passengers.

The azure waters surrounded scattered islands, and whenever the sea turned light blue, it indicated the presence of coral reefs or nearby islands. We were the third stop along the route. As we approached, the waves intensified, causing the large boat to sway slightly. Since the catamaran couldn’t dock at the pier, we had to transfer to smaller speedboats mid-sea. Though thrilling, the transition felt safe, as several crew members ensured the passengers’ security with care and assistance.

At 2 p.m., we finally arrived at the lobby of Tokoriki Island Resort Fiji, an adults-only resort showcasing traditional Fijian design. Many of the guests were couples. Upon each group’s arrival, the staff greeted them with a welcome drink, a cold towel, and a heartfelt Fijian welcome song. Even without understanding the lyrics, the joyous rhythm of the music was infectious.

Each group of guests was assigned a dedicated staff member to assist with the check-in process. After about 30 minutes, we were shown to our room. Each accommodation is a standalone villa, blending harmoniously with the lush greenery, making the buildings hard to spot from the sea. The villas are spaced out by trees, ensuring privacy between them. Every villa has a private backyard leading to a shared sandy beach, scattered with coconut trees, one of which holds a hammock.

The villa offers both indoor and outdoor showers, with glass doors separating the bedroom from the backyard, allowing us to enjoy garden and ocean views right from the bed. To encourage relaxation, the resort only provides Wi-Fi at the lobby, and it is turned off during dinner hours. Mobile data is unreliable here, and the rooms have no televisions. This setup invites guests to disconnect from the digital world and immerse themselves fully in the beauty and tranquility of Fiji.

Tokoriki Island Resort Fiji Afternoon

Every afternoon at 3:30 p.m., the lobby offers complimentary afternoon tea, including a cup of tea and a small dessert. With the infinity pool, sandy beach, and expansive ocean views before you, an entire afternoon can slip away effortlessly. After enjoying our tea, we wandered around the infinity pool, taking photos and exploring the surroundings—another hour and a half passed in the blink of an eye.

The resort is compact, with 18 villas on each side of the lobby, forming the entirety of the accommodation. Our room was located on the northern side, so we took a stroll to the southern end before returning to the lobby just in time for sunset. The lobby faces west, offering an uninterrupted view of the setting sun, casting golden light over the sea in front of the resort. Unfortunately, clouds where the sky met the ocean blocked the most beautiful part of the sunset. As the sun dipped below the horizon, the sea breeze picked up, adding a crisp freshness to the air.

Tokoriki Island Resort Fiji Seaside Dinner

During each guest’s stay, the resort arranges one seaside dinner and breakfast. The dining table is set on a wooden deck between the sandy beach and the infinity pool, illuminated by torches and oil lamps, creating a romantic atmosphere closer to the ocean. We opted for the all-inclusive meal plan, which included a three-course Western dinner, with the main dish changing daily.

The appetizer featured a salmon soup served in a coconut shell, offering both creative presentation and refreshing taste. Another appetizer with beef was delightful, though the pumpkin soup was slightly disappointing as the lemon’s acidity overwhelmed the other flavors. The tuna dish was decent, despite the challenge of serving tuna as a hot dish; the characteristic oils and flavors of the tuna still came through.

The curry prawns were delightful, with firm shrimp paired perfectly with Indian-style flatbread and basmati rice, which absorbed the curry sauce beautifully. For dessert, most options included ice cream. However, the combination of rum, Italian espresso, and ice cream was overwhelming, lacking subtlety. The cheese platter was abundant, featuring a variety of flavors—most were enjoyable, except for the intense moldy flavor of blue cheese and the overly salty cheddar.

After dinner, we sat under the moonlight, enjoying the sea breeze and reminiscing for another hour. Later, the resort offered traditional Fijian kava in the lobby, accompanied by live preparation and explanations of the local customs. While some traditions have evolved, kava remains the preferred way for Fijians to unwind after a day’s work. Made from the roots of a native plant, kava has an earthy taste reminiscent of herbal medicine, with a slight numbing effect on the tongue. Falling asleep to the sound of waves crashing against the shore was soothing and restful.

Tokoriki Island Resort Fiji Snorkeling

Today we embarked on our first snorkeling trip, taking a speedboat to a nearby coral reef. The water was crystal clear, and even from the boat, we could see some of the corals beneath the surface. However, the corals lacked vibrant colors, and the fish schools were sparse. The corals were located in relatively deep water, mostly in grayish-yellow hues, and the fish, likely not accustomed to visitors, were quite skittish, quickly retreating into the coral as we approached. Only a small blue fish stood out in terms of color.

After some searching, we spotted a couple of sea anemones with clownfish. These fish were larger than expected but not as colorful, and they stayed too deep to observe closely. One challenge during the dive was the strong currents, which made it easy to drift with the flow. It required effort to stay oriented, frequently checking the boat’s position to maintain direction. The tranquility of the water couldn’t quite compare to that of the Maldives.

Time in the water seemed to pass quickly. Although the reef’s scenery wasn’t as impressive as we had hoped, feeling the ocean’s embrace again was a wonderful experience in itself.

At Tokoriki Island Resort’s bar in Fiji, there’s a cocktail tasting event in the evening where you can enjoy three cocktails made fresh by the bartender, free of charge. One of the drinks, called My Time, uses local Fijian fruit juice, and the flavor of the juice almost completely hides the alcohol. Another option is Lost Cherry, which blends coconut and strawberry-flavored alcohol with a touch of milk, giving it a taste reminiscent of sherbet. The third cocktail, Red Lotus, has a refreshing lychee aroma, with the vodka barely noticeable, though the aftertaste carries a slight tartness from the lychee.

At Tokoriki Island Resort in Fiji, we were unexpectedly drawn in by the stunning sunset and evening glow. Earlier, our hopes had faded due to the clouds and rain, but around six in the evening, the sun suddenly broke through a gap in the clouds, casting dazzling rays. Even the thick cloud cover over the island started to lift, creating perfect conditions for the evening glow. Although a band of clouds still lingered along the horizon, blocking the view of the sun dipping into the sea, the light from the sun, now below the horizon, refracted across the sky and sea, turning everything a soft pink. It lasted only about ten minutes, but the scenery kept shifting, making every second feel new.

As most of the red glow faded from the sky, it was time for dinner. The appetizer featured tempura shrimp, with the shrimp meat fresh, firm, and pleasantly bouncy—there was nothing to criticize about the quality of the ingredients. For the main course, the curry lamb was prepared in small pieces, presumably to pair better with the Indian flatbread, though this choice sacrificed some of the meat’s texture. However, the grilled beef tenderloin was unanimously praised; its natural sweetness came through beautifully. Even though tenderloin is a lean cut, the dish was cooked just right, avoiding the dryness that can sometimes make it hard to enjoy.

For dessert, the banana toffee pie was a pleasant surprise. I had expected it to be overwhelmingly sweet, but the toffee’s richness was perfectly balanced by the banana filling on top. The banana soufflé was also quite impressive, with the blend of banana and egg whites offering a unique combination. Another wonderful day came to an end with good food, good company, and meaningful moments. Cherishing togetherness, appreciating the beauty in life, and embracing the diversity of the world—everything felt perfectly arranged, just as it should be.

After breakfast, we decided to switch things up and hike the small hill behind the resort. Along the trail, there’s a chapel that, despite lacking a cross or religious statues, radiates a sense of peace and tranquility. The hill isn’t very tall, and it only takes about ten minutes to reach the top. However, the path is quite steep and a bit slippery in places. Fortunately, there are ropes along the way to help with the climb, though it seems like not many people use the trail—ants were crawling freely over the ropes.

At the top, there’s a small pavilion offering a new perspective on this beautiful island. From here, we could spot the beach where our resort is located, which stands out as particularly picturesque. In contrast, the beaches on the other side are a mix of sand and mudflats. We also got a clear view of the snorkeling spot from the day before. Thanks to the crystal-clear water, the coral reefs were easy to spot, and even from this height, we could see the variations in water color caused by the changes in the reef’s depth and structure.

Today, the resort prepared lovo, a traditional Fijian delicacy beloved by locals. The ingredients include taro, cassava, yams, whole fish, whole chicken, and large cuts of pork. After being marinated, the ingredients are wrapped in banana leaves and placed in a pit, which is then filled with soil and packed down. More banana leaves and wood are laid on top, and a fire is lit above it, baking the food for several hours until it’s fully cooked.

We watched the process of unearthing the food. Braving the heat, the workers used their bare hands to remove the fabric holding the soil in place. As the soil was cleared and the banana leaves were revealed, the aroma from the food started to escape, filling the air with an irresistible scent. The fragrance lingered for a long time, even after the food had been completely uncovered.

In the afternoon, we arrived at the marina, picked up some beer and food, and boarded our private speedboat. With the boat exclusively reserved for us, it came equipped with ice to keep our drinks cool. Under the afternoon sun, we set sail once again toward the open waters near Nadi. The crew had arranged three snorkeling spots for us, and at each stop, a crew member joined us in the water to assist and guide us.

The weather was perfect, with clear skies and calm seas. Even as the speedboat raced across the ocean, there was barely any turbulence, just the gentle up-and-down motion of the boat. Looking out from the bow at the vast sky and sea, it felt wonderfully relaxing. After about 30 minutes of sailing, we arrived at the first snorkeling spot, just off the island where Malamala Beach Club is located. The water here was calm, with a decent number of corals and fish. The fish were not too shy, and some swam quite close to us. However, the water wasn’t as clear as it had been at Tokoriki Island. While sunlight filtered through the water, you could see tiny particles floating around, but we were still happy since the gentle current made it easy for everyone to enjoy snorkeling.

The second spot felt like we were in the middle of the vast ocean, but beneath the surface was a large coral reef, sitting just below the waterline. It only became visible when the boat stopped directly above it. Unfortunately, the water quality here was not ideal, with more floating seaweed and limited visibility. Still, the reef featured layers of fan-shaped corals, resembling a staircase rising toward the surface, adding a unique touch to the experience.

The third snorkeling spot was off the coast of Malolo Lailai Island, where the water was shallow but filled with seaweed. Some of the coral reefs here were part of a restoration project, with metal frames used for coral cultivation still visible on the seabed. This area was teeming with fish, and the shallow waters made it easy to observe them as they swam seamlessly between different species. The fish here seemed used to human presence and barely moved away when we swam among them.

Each of the three spots offered a distinct glimpse into Fiji’s underwater world, giving us a varied and enriching snorkeling experience. After finishing at the third spot, we started our journey back to Nadi. With the changing tide, the sea had grown a bit choppier, making the boat ride more bumpy. However, as we approached Nadi, the waters calmed, and the crew stopped the boat to let us enjoy the sunset at sea. They even adjusted the boat’s direction at our request to help us capture the perfect photo. Finally, they dropped us off directly on the beach at our hotel, sparing us the discomfort of walking back cold and wet as the warmth of the sun faded.

On our last day in Fiji, we started with a visit to the Sri Siva Subramaniya Swami Temple, said to be the largest Hindu temple in the South Pacific. Although I’ve been to India a few times for work, I’d never had the chance to visit a Hindu temple before, so this visit gave me a brief introduction to Hindu mythology and traditions.

Afterward, we headed to the duty-free shops on Queens Road, the main street in Nadi, where most of the town’s businesses, restaurants, and bars are located. Jack’s of Fiji, a popular chain found in many tourist areas, was selling various locally inspired products.

Next, we visited Namaka Mini Market near the airport, a local market offering fresh produce. It was a great way to get a sense of the prices for fruits and vegetables, and we also saw the raw ingredients used to make kava. From there, we went to the nearby village of Viseisei. Although most houses there no longer reflect traditional Fijian architecture, the chief’s house beside the Jone Wesle Church still retains the high-vaulted roof made of palm and coconut leaves. It’s said that the entire roof and walls need to be rebuilt every ten years. This village is believed to be the landing spot of the first European explorers to discover Fiji, though we didn’t encounter much of the native culture still preserved in the area.

Our final stop was the Garden of the Sleeping Giant, located between two mountains resembling reclining giants. The garden features 30 to 40 species of Asian orchids and Cattleya hybrids, part of the late Canadian actor Raymond Burr’s private collection, which he began assembling in 1977. In addition to the orchids, the garden offers shaded paths where you can escape the sun beneath the native plants and trees. At the end of the visit, we were treated to a refreshing tropical fruit juice blend, perfect for cooling off.

In the afternoon, we rested for a bit, hoping to avoid the heat. But by the time we stepped out again, the sky was completely covered with clouds, and the sun had disappeared for the rest of the day.