Hanoi and Ha Long Bay Trip

Hanoi and Ha Long Bay Trip

In Hanoi, I chose a hostel located just 200 meters from the famous Train Street. The train lines in Vietnam are still using the narrow gauge tracks originally built during the French colonial period. Not many places in the world still use this type of narrow-gauge railway. Train Street is a unique area in Hanoi’s Old Quarter where the tracks run right in front of residential buildings, which have been converted into cozy cafes or small shops for visitors. The old tracks, vintage trains, and the old signs on the buildings create a distinctive and popular spot in Hanoi. Walking 1 kilometer along the railway street leads to Hanoi Railway Station, which serves as a major hub for Vietnam’s train routes, primarily connecting Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City.

Hanoi’s Old Quarter is not very large, and our accommodation was no more than 2 kilometers from the farthest point of the Old Quarter. From Hoan Kiem Lake, you can walk to the Old Quarter, then to Hanoi Cathedral, the Train Street, and finally to the Temple of Literature. Most of Hanoi’s attractions are located along this route. Hoan Kiem Lake is a small lake in the heart of Hanoi, and from one end you can see the other side. It is an oval-shaped lake, covering an area of about 12 hectares. The lake is famous for two landmarks: the Turtle Tower and the Ngoc Son Temple. The Turtle Tower, which frequently appears on Vietnamese stamps, is a prominent feature of Hoan Kiem Lake. According to local legends, the sword that once appeared on the lake has now transformed into the Turtle Tower. The Ngoc Son Temple is located on a small island in the lake, connected by a red bridge.

The Hanoi Opera House, built in the early 20th century, is a typical architectural monument from the French colonial period. The design of the opera house blends Romanesque architecture with French architectural styles, particularly incorporating elements from French castles and the Paris Opera House.

Baguettes are very famous in Vietnam, and this popular shop is especially renowned. There’s always a long line in front of the store. The shop offers a variety of baguette styles, with prices ranging from 20,000 to 40,000 VND, catering to different tastes.

In the center of Hanoi lies a naturally formed lake called Hoan Kiem Lake. It’s not too crowded with tourists, making it a great spot to relax. By the lake, there’s a unique water puppet show, where half of the performers play traditional musical instruments while the others control the puppets from behind the scenes, operating them underwater.

Even though I couldn’t understand a word of the narration or lyrics, the simple stories about farming and fishing were performed wonderfully. Just a side note: the tonal pronunciation of Vietnamese is quite similar to Cantonese.

If you’re bold enough, the best way to get around Hanoi is by motorbike. With the Grab app, you can not only book cars but also motorbikes. Compared to cars, which can take quite a while to arrive, motorbikes are almost instant. After putting on a helmet—whether it fits or not depends on your luck—you’ll be zipping through the city in no time. Motorbikes can maneuver through heavy traffic and navigate narrow residential alleys that don’t even appear on maps, getting you to your destination quickly and efficiently.

The Temple of Literature, also known as the Imperial Academy, was essentially an ancient university. The historical relationship between Vietnam and China is complex, but what’s clear is that while modern Vietnamese people can neither read nor write Chinese, the inscriptions on significant buildings are still entirely in Chinese characters.

The Temple of Literature is a prime example of the deep influence of Chinese culture, though on a much smaller scale. Inside, statues of scholars are enshrined, and the lists of scholars from various imperial reigns, along with relics from the imperial examination, give the place a feeling of a miniature cultural site.

This feeling is even more pronounced at the Imperial Citadel of Thang Long, often referred to as Hanoi’s version of the Forbidden City. However, there are only a handful of buildings—around four or five—including a two-story tower that takes barely two minutes to explore.

Vietnam is a socialist country, and next to the Imperial Citadel of Thang Long stands a statue of Lenin, along with the Vietnam Military History Museum, completing the typical setup of a socialist regime.

Since the arrival of French colonizers in the 17th century, Vietnam has been targeted by various invading powers and fought against numerous countries, earning a reputation as perhaps one of the most battle-hardened nations in the world. Colonizing and imperialist forces, armed with advanced weaponry, repeatedly failed to conquer the Vietnamese. When direct conquest proved unsuccessful, these powers resorted to strategies like dividing the nation, inciting “Vietnamese fighting Vietnamese.” However, under Ho Chi Minh’s leadership, North Vietnam eventually achieved full victory.

The Paris Peace Accords of 1973 were preceded by five years of negotiations and 200 meetings. It wasn’t until the Vietnamese drove the Americans out that the agreement was formally signed. Two years later, North Vietnam conquered South Vietnam, finally achieving the reunification of the country.

The main attraction in Hanoi is Ha Long Bay. Ha Long City is located more than 100 kilometers east of Hanoi, right on the coast. As soon as you head out to sea, you’re greeted by nearly two thousand limestone islands, large and small, scattered across the water. Countless cruise ships sail through these islands, offering breathtaking views. Unlike the fjords of New Zealand, which look like deep cracks splitting through land, Ha Long Bay is like sand scattered across a plate—tiny islands densely packed, each covered in greenery but devoid of human inhabitants.

With such natural beauty, it’s no surprise that Ha Long Bay has a thriving tourism industry, and the efficiency and coordination of the cruise operators are impressive. To enjoy the scenery, you must head out to sea, with options ranging from day trips to overnight stays for one or two nights. The longer the trip, the more places you can explore, but with fewer tourists along the way. While organizing day trips is relatively straightforward, managing overnight guests—especially those staying two nights—requires more planning, as these guests are rare and can’t fill an entire boat. And they can’t simply be grouped with one-night guests on back-to-back cruises either.

The operators have a clever system to solve this. The overnight boats, typically around 100 tons and capable of carrying several dozen passengers, tow a smaller boat for transporting guests to and from the pier. We were among those on a two-night cruise, and when we boarded at the dock around 11:30 AM, we realized that everyone else was only staying one night! On the first day, the itinerary was the same for all guests. By 2 PM, we arrived at an island, where the smaller boat ferried guests to explore two smaller islands until about 4:30 PM, while the main ship anchored nearby for the night.

On the second morning, our schedule was slightly staggered from the other guests. After the smaller boat dropped them off at another attraction, it transferred us onto a “Day Boat” reserved for second-day guests, where we joined passengers from seven other cruises. The Day Boat took us to explore more remote areas while our main ship returned to the pier to drop off the one-night guests and pick up a new group. By the time we returned to the main ship at 3 PM, the smaller boat seamlessly brought us back onboard, just as the new batch of one-day guests returned from their excursion at 4:30 PM. The schedule was so precise, it ran like clockwork.

While these smaller Ha Long Bay cruise ships don’t offer the same level of facilities or maintenance as larger ocean liners, they make up for it with flexibility and convenience. The crew, despite occasional language barriers, were attentive and dedicated, making for an enjoyable experience. On the third day, we visited another part of the bay called Lan Ha, which features similar scenery but with far fewer tourists. Next time, I might spend a few extra days exploring Lan Ha Bay more thoroughly.

Two hours south of Hanoi lies Ninh Binh, another must-visit destination. Most tourists stay in Hanoi and join a day tour to explore it. Departing at 7:30 AM, we arrived at the first stop, the Bai Dinh Pagoda, under the scorching 35-degree sun, almost getting baked alive.

While the ancient temple has a history of over a thousand years, the sections accessible to visitors were newly built in 2003. Although it can’t compare to the grand temples of China or Thailand, encountering familiar temple layouts and the Buddha statues in the main hall in a foreign land was still an interesting experience.

In the afternoon, we visited Trang An, which was well worth the trip. The tranquil countryside scenery featured a natural river winding through limestone karsts and caves. Local farmers row small boats, taking visitors through the low-hanging caves, where at the lowest points, you can reach up and touch the ceiling. Outside the caves lies a sea of lush greenery, with the occasional duck popping up from the river, catching fish. Here, the noise of the city feels worlds away.

Although the boatmen didn’t speak our language, they still managed to point out certain hills that were filming locations for the movie King Kong.

Mua Cave is one of the many limestone mountains in Ninh Binh, famous for its 500-plus steps leading to the summit. After climbing breathlessly to the top, you are rewarded with a panoramic view of the idyllic countryside below. However, I can’t help but wonder if I’ll still have the energy to make the climb next time I visit.

The countless motorbikes in Hanoi have given rise to a unique experience—a city tour where each visitor rides as a passenger on the back of a guide’s motorbike. Our guide this time was named John, who comes from a small town 70 kilometers outside of Hanoi. After finishing high school, he moved to Hanoi to attend university, where he studied tourism. Although Vietnamese universities offer English courses, all other subjects are taught in Vietnamese, meaning most graduates have limited English proficiency. John, however, was an exception—he had a passion for the language and taught himself, which naturally led him to a career doing what he loves. Despite modest earnings, he enjoys the freedom of moving around daily. In fact, even when a guest once offered him a well-paid job in Malaysia, he declined.

Another driver accompanying us was from a family of water dwellers; his parents still live on a boat. He has spent six years working and traveling across various cities in Vietnam, exploring nearly the entire country by motorbike. Everyone has their own way of life, and as long as they’re happy, that’s what matters.

We crossed the iron bridge built by the French in 1903 and arrived at an ancient village over a thousand years old. When Emperor Ly Thai To decided to relocate the capital to Hanoi, he mobilized nobles from across the country to cultivate the land here. Thirteen (or perhaps nineteen) families settled in the area, including renowned ceramic artisans. With its location by the Red River, the village’s ceramic industry flourished and remains prosperous to this day, with almost every household engaged in pottery-making.

Food
Northern Vietnam shares a border with China, and their cuisines seem to have some similarities, especially with rice noodles being a staple food. Aside from the famous pho beef noodle soup found worldwide, Hanoi’s specialty is bun cha—grilled pork with vermicelli.

This humble street food can be found down alleyways, served with just a small charcoal grill and a few tiny plastic stools. Diners huddle on the stools, feasting happily. Thick slices of pork are grilled between two metal grates over glowing coals and served with cooled vermicelli noodles that were briefly blanched in hot water. A variety of fresh herbs and greens accompany the dish. When eating, you slowly add all the ingredients into a small bowl of tangy broth with fermented green papaya.