Backpacking in Muscat

Backpacking in Muscat

Oman is a country full of love everywhere you go. The locals don’t mind being in your shots; they’ll enthusiastically chat with you and offer help. Spending a few days in Oman felt healing. The kind smiles and laid-back nature unique to Middle Eastern people create a slow-paced atmosphere that’s worth spending at least two days to experience.

In the UAE, whether it’s Abu Dhabi or Dubai, there are way too many foreigners. The country is home to immigrants from all over the world, with a huge number of South Asians. You don’t see many locals wearing traditional robes on the streets, unlike in Oman. In Oman, you can spot locals wearing small caps everywhere on the roads, and the proportion of native people is extremely high. Here, you can experience a truly Middle Eastern environment—it’s really, really Middle Eastern!

Maybe because the happiness level here is so high, their enthusiasm doesn’t feel overwhelming. I hope all our friends who visit can reciprocate the locals’ warmth and kindness respectfully!

Actually, Oman has always been a very niche travel destination. Most people who have been there are those who work or live in the Middle East. The information available online is too fragmented, so I’ve compiled all the information I previously gathered along with my actual experiences to summarize. The ranking is not in order, all are important!

  1. Regarding Round-Trip Itinerary
    Our itinerary was to first go to Abu Dhabi, then back and forth between Abu Dhabi and Muscat. At the Etihad counter in Abu Dhabi airport, the staff thoroughly checked our accommodations in Muscat and our round-trip flight bookings. So, remember to print everything. Every time you check in abroad, they require your flight bookings, so make sure to print out your English itinerary.
  2. Regarding Local SIM Cards in Oman
    I previously checked online information. Most SIM cards that work in Oman are also usable in multiple countries. Considering we only had three days, we decided to buy at Muscat after arriving at the airport.Muscat airport is very small. After clearing customs, there are many carriers to choose from in the small airport.

    After comparing prices throughout the airport, we chose RENNA’s SIM card—1.5GB for 3 Riyals. The actual internet speed was really good, felt faster than in the UAE. We didn’t exceed our data limit in three days since we didn’t watch videos, mainly used it for navigation without any delays. The location of the SIM shop we chose is hard to describe; it’s not in an easily visible spot. There are nearly ten shops in the small airport, and you can find it easily by walking around a bit. It was sandwiched between two carriers with a red storefront.
  3. Regarding Public Transportation
    Before going, I browsed through major platforms, and many people said transportation was inconvenient, suggesting renting a car or hiring a private driver. After actually going, here’s my real experience:If you’re going places other than Muscat, you seem to need a car since public buses are few, but you can take a coach.

    For places like Nizwa, you can take a coach.However, if you’re like us and only going to Muscat, public buses work fine. The buses run roughly every half hour, but they’re infrequent and bus stops are very close—walking a bit more doesn’t take too far.
  4. There’s a Lot to Say About Muscat Buses
    The Ruwi bus hub is super convenient. We only took three bus routes throughout our trip: Route 1 to Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque for 0.4 Riyals, Route 4 to the old town and the Royal Opera House for 0.3 Riyals, and A1 to the airport for 0.5 Riyals.

    When getting off, you have to press the bell. When boarding, you can pay with cash or possibly swipe a credit card. Ruwi bus station is huge and obvious—every bus comes to the station, so no worries about buses not stopping.Regarding many people saying that buses won’t stop if the stop is occupied, this usually happens at Mutrah Fort in the old town or the nearby large market. On our first day, we saw the roadside filled with buses and just walked one stop ahead. A bus came quickly.

    A few foreign tourists were waiting at the previous stop, but they didn’t seem to be on the bus. I felt maybe it didn’t stop, but the next day at the same stop, buses also appeared to be full but did stop, so my conclusion is that whether the bus stops depends on the driver’s mood. I’d suggest trusting that it will stop, since a half-hour interval is a bit long!Regarding bus routes, Google Maps is accurate, but the timing isn’t. When the bus arrives depends on the driver’s mood, so if you’re taking the bus, make sure to leave enough time.

    Also, through chatting with locals, I found out that Muscat has many shared taxis, basically like ride-sharing. Prices aren’t too high, but we didn’t try them out because we were worried about safety.Key Point: After leaving the airport, at the A1 bus stop, buses going in two directions on the A1 line stop at the same place. Although the bus shows the final stop, it’s in Arabic, which I can’t read. So! When you see a bus, don’t rush to get on. Ask the driver if it’s going to Ruwi, and if yes, then board! Very important! Very important!
  5. Regarding Withdrawing Money at the Airport
    Currently, there are three ways to exchange to Riyals. First, if you’re departing from the UAE, you can exchange money there before going. Second, after arriving, use your credit card to enter the city and exchange money.

    Near Ruwi, there are many currency exchange shops, but they deal in Dirhams, US Dollars, or Euros. Third, use your Visa card to withdraw cash directly at the airport—note that UnionPay isn’t accepted. Regarding withdrawing money with a Visa card, I have two Visa cards. The advantage is that you can avoid currency conversion fees, but withdrawing cash with a credit card incurs interest.
  6. Regarding Where to Stay
    We chose the same hotel in Ruwi based on previous travelers’ experiences. The hotel’s conditions are good and the price isn’t expensive, with lots of places to eat nearby and several large supermarkets. After staying two days, here are my thoughts on hotel locations:If you’re traveling like a special forces team, staying near Ruwi is indeed a good choice, as transportation and accommodation are very convenient. If you need to transfer to the A1 bus to go to the airport, and if your itinerary is tight, this is a very good choice.If you’re in vacation mode, I’d actually recommend staying near the old town.

    You can stroll along the beach in the evening, and the surrounding facilities are very complete. There are lots of locals, and it’s lively. However, it’s relatively far from mosques and the airport, so to go to these two places, you need to transfer in Ruwi.I think both places are fine and offer good value for money. You can choose based on your own preferences. We stayed at a hotel named Golden Tulip Headington Ruwi. If you choose to stay in Ruwi, consider this place. Thanks to previous travelers for the great advice—it’s really awesome to listen to others!
  7. Before Going, Let’s Get to Know the Local Currency
    We’ve encountered reverse rounding situations in both Oman and the UAE, but the currency amounts in the UAE are clearer. However, Oman’s currency was a bit confusing. I had to ask an Indian auntie to understand, so here it is:As we all know, Oman’s currency is very valuable, so the denominations aren’t very large. Oman has two units: Riyal, which we commonly call Riyal, and Baisa, which Baidu calls Bise or Paisa.

    I asked a local how to pronounce it, and it sounded like “beisi.” 1 Riyal = 1000 Baisa. So, when you see a 100 note, it’s equivalent to 1 Mao in Chinese units. In Oman, transactions are precise up to three decimal places. Another thing to note is that the 50 Baisa coins have two versions. We always thought they were two different denominations, but the Indian auntie said they are the same!
    Additionally, it’s important to note that in Oman, 20 Riyals is a high denomination. Make sure to exchange your larger bills for smaller ones, otherwise, you won’t be able to get change for buses and such.
  8. About Nizwa
    Originally, our itinerary planned to go to Nizwa the day after arriving in Muscat. I researched a lot before going, but ultimately, it was too exhausting due to the long trip, and because the third day happened to be Friday when the churches were closed, forcing us to visit the church on Tuesday. After visiting the church, there wasn’t enough time to go to Nizwa, so we canceled that day’s plans. I’ll elaborate on this below for everyone’s reference when planning your itinerary.

    There are buses to Nizwa. There are two types: one goes to Nizwa city bus station, which has many buses, and the other goes directly to the castle, which probably only has one round-trip per day. When I was planning, I saw that some people said there are shared taxis from the bus station to the castle, but others said they couldn’t catch one. I’m not sure about the exact situation, but I checked the map and concluded that since it’s not far, if there are no shared taxis available, you can just take a regular taxi—it shouldn’t be too crazy.

    Also, regarding buying tickets, Oman has bus ticket websites. Just Google it yourself; I won’t include the links here. I’ve checked the schedules and everything is clear, but I haven’t bought any tickets myself. If you want to buy tickets in Muscat, go to the bus ticket office right next to the Ruwi bus station—it’s very close. The ticket office opens at 9 AM, but the buses don’t depart from there; they depart from another station. I previously checked that Route 1 can get you there, which is pretty close to the mosque but quite far from the old town and Ruwi.
  9. About Eating
    At least in the two countries we visited, the ingredients are basically divided into two types: one is chicken, and the other is meat (including beef or lamb. I don’t understand why chicken is listed separately). The cooking methods are either grilling or stewing, and the staples are long-grain Indian rice or Arabic bread.

    In Oman, almost all restaurants take a break in the afternoon, so on our first day, after arriving, we couldn’t find a place to eat. We ended up going to Lulu to buy a lot of food, which was like having a supermarket meal. But in the evening in Ruwi, eating out is really great and very lively. You should reserve time to eat there.

    Also, regarding food recommendations, I think the most effective method is to use Google Maps to find nearby restaurants and choose ones with high ratings. If you don’t know what to order, ask the staff or other diners for help. Middle Eastern people are very friendly and will definitely help you out with clear recommendations.

In our group, Matola Castle was the only stop we had. Over two days, we took the bus three times but never got off at the right place. Google Maps definitely marked the wrong station for this spot. I’d suggest everyone just get off at the market station and walk from there—it’s a short walk because Google Maps isn’t clear in that area. We spent a long time trying to find it and ended up asking a bunch of people. A guy from a gallery pointed us in the right direction, and that’s how we finally found it. To get there, get off at the market station and head towards where the bus is going. When you see the area below, turn right and walk a bit. On the left, there’s a narrow little uphill—go up, and you’ll see the castle. After climbing the small hill, there’s a flat area outside the fortress, and on the right, there’s a small building where you can buy tickets for $3 each.

Oman has tons of castles like this; they were part of ancient defenses, but since they haven’t been well preserved, they don’t show much anymore. The Matola Castle area is better maintained, but it’s still pretty small.

The most stunning S Bay that’s captivated countless people is right where this photo was taken. I think the best spot to capture it is after climbing the last set of stairs—don’t go onto the small platform by the fortress. It gets really windy there, so if you’re a stylish lady, make sure your hair is tucked in and you look sharp.

After exploring the castle, you can head over to the big market next door. It’s a key spot in the old town, not just for tourists but also for locals who come here to buy clothes, hats, and other stuff. There are tons of restaurants and shops at the entrance, making it super lively. Plus, it’s right by the sea, so taking a stroll along the waterfront at sunset is absolutely awesome.

The next morning, we left the Ruwi bus station to head to the mosque, which was still pretty far. Both Bus 1 and A1 go there, but Bus 1 is cheaper, and since it’s the main station, everyone should just take Bus 1. After getting off the bus, it’s still about a kilometer walk to the mosque. If it’s too hot, it’s better to get off and grab a cab, but if the weather’s nice, you can walk.

Once we arrived at the mosque, we just followed the crowd to get inside. We bumped into a senior group from Hong Kong and saw a lot of Russians there.

Inside, there aren’t any strict rules. You don’t have to follow a specific path; you can chill in the corridors, rest, or take photos as you like. This mosque is the only big one I’ve been to where you can actually walk on the main hall’s carpet. The main hall is gorgeous and super ornate. If you’re lucky, you might see some devout worshippers praying. It really feels like a place that can cleanse your soul, so it’s worth spending enough time walking around and sitting here. There’s also an Islamic cultural center. We cooled off with some air conditioning and enjoyed dates and ginger tea. A friendly, long-bearded elder even gave us a copy of the Quran. The guy next to us wanted a French version, but they didn’t have any left.

Both the Royal Palace and the castle can be reached by Bus 4, with the Royal Palace being the last stop on the route. We got off at the Muscat National Museum station a bit late. The palace is right across from the museum, just a few steps away, so it’s easy to spot. You can’t go inside the palace, but you can check it out from the entrance. After that, we followed the map to walk along the waterfront. The seaside behind the palace is pretty extensive—if you want to walk, you can go a long way. I think if you have the energy, you can keep walking all the way to Matola Castle. This stretch mostly has seawalls instead of beaches. We only walked a little before heading back. We took the bus from the station next to the museum back to Ruwi, and the drop-off point is the same place where you wait for the bus.

Still, because we changed our plans and it was Friday, we couldn’t get into the popular National Theater. So, we decided to take it easy for the day. After sleeping in, we headed to a traditional South Indian restaurant for a wild culinary adventure. I have to say, Oman has a lot of Indian people, and their Indian food doesn’t upset your stomach, so if you’re interested, you should definitely give it a try. I used Google Maps to find a highly rated place that’s been around for years. When we got there, the owner showed us to another area, which made me realize that Indian dining really does follow a sort of caste system, with foreigners treated as higher caste. The place wasn’t fully packed, but others didn’t come in either. The menu was completely baffling, so we decided to ask a nearby lady for help. Her family was clearly well-educated and didn’t use heavy curry flavors. They quickly helped us by arranging a meal with various items like little fried pastries and steamed buns with different sauces. Honestly, don’t ask me exactly what I ate because I couldn’t really understand or listen to it, but they kept checking if everything was good and if the food was correct. Indian people are really kind!

Worth noting, a traditional South Indian meal is served in courses. For example, you start with a small fried pastry, then you can order a steamed bun, followed by some masala, and after you’re full, you can have a little coffee. It was my first time having a traditional South Indian meal, and I strangely love Indian food, so I could handle it, though some people might not like the sour flatbreads. If you’re interested and visit Oman, you should definitely give it a try.

After we stuffed ourselves, our original plan was to take a walk by the beach. But once again, we messed up and took Bus 4 the wrong way. In the end, we just decided to stroll around the big market nearby instead. The big market only opens at 4 PM, so when we got there around noon, some of the shops were open while others weren’t. But that actually gave us a chance to see a different side of the local scene.

Let me wrap things up with my thoughts on the pros and cons of this trip:

  1. If you’re still planning your flight, do everything you can to avoid traveling on a Friday—this was the biggest issue we ran into. That said, it turned out to be a blessing in disguise. We spent two slow-paced days here, which gave us the chance to watch locals play chess and chat with them. If you have the time, I highly recommend staying a few more days. Most locals speak good English, and spending half a day chatting with them can be quite fun.
  2. I believe Oman is a place worth exploring in depth. If possible, try to unlock as many experiences here as you can.
  3. There are very few women on the streets in Oman, and local women are even rarer. If you’re a solo female traveler eating at a restaurant, you might attract some attention, almost like a tourist attraction yourself. But there’s no need to worry about safety.
  4. In my opinion, the perfect two-day itinerary would be:
    Day 1 – Visit the Sultan’s Palace, walk along the coast, enjoy the sunset at Matola Castle, and wrap up with food and shopping at the Matola Market before heading back.
    Day 2 – Explore the Grand Mosque and the National Theater.
    This route is well-organized but might feel a bit rushed. If you prefer a more relaxed trip, you can follow the slower pace we took for the first two days and save the theater for the last day.